The CLIVAR Program

So I have talked a lot about what I am doing out on the ocean but I want to clarify what exactly I am a part of. CLIVAR (Climate and Ocean: Variability, Predictability and Change) is a repeat hydrography program whose mission is to understand the dynamics, the interaction, and the predictability of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. To this end it facilitates observations, analysis and predictions of changes in the Earth’s climate system, enabling better understanding of climate variability and dynamics, predictability, and change, to the benefit of society and the environment in which we live. What that means is this. Ships are sent out every 10 years to follow the same track and collect water samples. These samples are analyzed to determine the changes in their chemical and physical properties that have occurred in the last decade. From these changes, we can track climate change, observe the circulation of water in the ocean, and see the effects of humans on the global oceans. 

The CLIVAR lines. Ours (P16) is the white highlighted line. I got on at Hawaii and headed north to Alaska. 

54.9N 145.8W

The End of the Line

We did it! (fire confetti cannon) The Ronald H. Brown and all of its crew and scientists have made it to the end of the P16N line. The line ends at 56.44N 153.342W, just a couple of miles south of Kodiak, Alaska. All of the scientists are thrilled to have accomplished this goal. We have sampled 76 stations and take up over 20064L (5300 gallons) of water to sample from the ocean at depths of up to 5900m (19357ft). We have battled strong winds, heavy rain, thick fog, exhaustion and cold in order to analyze the chemical and physical properties of the ocean... and it has all been worth it. The data we have collected in the last 4 weeks will be used by hundreds of scientists from around the world to better understand our oceans and how they are changing. And I can not be more proud to be a part of such an endeavor. I have gotten a chance to work with an amazing group of individuals, all of whom excel in their fields. I have gotten to spend 4 weeks out on the open ocean and see some amazing things. And the best part is, ITS NOT OVER YET!

(Most of) The terrific science crew from P16N leg 2

Yes thats right, completing the P16N line was the primary objective of this cruise, but we have another week and a half before we are due in Seattle. We are now going to begin our occupation of the P17 line that crosses the Gulf of Alaska. This track hasn't been sampled in 20 years and so it will be fascinating to see how things have changed. With any luck, we will be able to complete the 16 stations of this line and get back to Seattle without any trouble. Everyone aboard the cruise is now a veteran and we are running like a well oiled machine (which is ironic because the ship is constantly leaking oil). I am looking forward to this last week on the Brown and to getting back to dry land. The push to the end has just begin.

Just another sunset

Shrink Cup

Shrink Cup! No its not a drinking game. Its what happens when scientists do arts and crafts. The principle is pretty simple. Styrofoam is a polymer chain material that is filled with air holes creating a substance that is light but sturdy. However, due to the air pockets, the styrofoam is not actually as solid as it may seem. When you, say, apply 5000 dbars (725,000 psi) of pressure to a styrofoam cup, it forces the air out of the cup and shrinks the styrofoam. One of the many traditions on oceanographic cruises, is to use this principle to shrink decorated cups by attaching them to our CTD and sending them to the bottom of the ocean. It is a tradition that I have been looking forward to all crusie. Styrofoam cups are decorated using sharpies and put into a laundry bag. The bag is then attached to the CTD and poof, shrink cup! The Cups often get misshapen in the process but the result is still pretty cool. I had everyone in the science party sign my cup before sending it down. Check out the results.

Shrink Cup results. The blue line is for scale

You can also make an octopus by cutting the top of the cup into strips. 

Weather update: Well we are still surrounded by fog. Today, for the first time, we had about 45 minutes of sunlight and blue skies before the fog closed back in. It is so thick now, it feels as if we are in a cloud. We are all hoping it clears up tonight before we get to Kodiak, Alaska because everyone is hoping for some sights of land.

The fog

Moral is up as we wind down the last stations of P16N. We are approching our most northern station. After tonight, we will have a 15 hour steam back down south before we pick up the P17 line the cuts across the Gulf of Alaska.

56N 153W

Safety Drills

In school, we have all had to be part of fire drills. And most of a time, they are kind of a waste. Everyone knows how to walk downstairs and go outside when an alarm rings. But, what do you do if there is an emergency at sea. Today we had our weekly abandon ship and fire drills. And I am, for the first time ever, quite glad of the drills. Because at sea, you can't simply go downstairs and walk outside in case of a fire. The fire department can't send a truck over in five minutes to put out a fire. So it is important that you know where to go and what to do incase of an emergency at sea. Of course the ship is adequately equipped with life rafts. But with the nearest point of land being 650 nautical miles (748 miles) away, there is more to do then just hop in a dingy. In the cold waters of the North Pacific, a full body immersion suit must be worn to protect against hypothermia. These immersion or "gumby" suites are a process to get into and so, as part of the drill, we practice putting them on. An abandon ship call would only be made if the ship was sinking. Fire crew are trained to put out fires on the ship and most other emergencies can be solved without needing the crew to abandon the ship. All the same, it is good to know what to do.

Ben in a "gumby" suit

We have been beset with fog today. It has been so thick that we have been sounding our whistle once a minute to alert any ships of our presence. Its eerie because you cannot tell where the sun is. Everything is the same color of grey. Even the water is grey. But in a way it is peaceful. All of the veteran sailers are saying we have been amazingly lucky with the weather. We are passing through the middle of a storm track but we seem to have slipped between two storms and so should continue to have good weather for a while. Everyone is hoping this will last. As exciting as a storm would be, 15m waves do not sound pleasant.

54N 152W

Some More About the Science

So on top of the CTD cast water samples we collect and analyze, there are a number of other fascinating pieces of science we are performing on the cruise. Every night, a special net known as a bongo net (because it looks like two bongo drums) is deployed over the sides to collect plankton. As we move farther north, the plankton species have changed greatly. We have collected krill, copepods, arthropoda, shrimp and crab larvae, fish larvae, and many other species of plankton. The bongo nets are always deployed at night because plankton migrate to the surface at night to feed in the cover of darkness.

Jessie preparing her bongo net. Each net collects plankton of different sizes.

Another unique instrument we have on board is the Underwater Vision Profiler (UVP). This automated camera is attached to the CTD and photographs organisms that drift by as we deploy the CTD to the depths. The UVP brings back some amazing photos of small organisms that look like aliens from another world. The photos are analyzed and used to determine the extent and variety of plankton present at different depths along the cruise track. The distribution of plankton can tell us a lot about the components of the seawater and the properties of the ecosystems in the North Pacific.

A collage of some of the images taken by the UVP.

As we steam along, we are also deploying ARGO floats. These autonomous oceanographic vehicles (AOVs) have an inflatable bladder that allows them to sink to 1000m and collect data. They float with the current and track water movement. Once every 2 or 3 days, the AOVs surface and relay their position to the ARGO satellites allowing researchers to track ocean currents and in situ water properties.

Mar preparing to throw the ARGO float overboard. 

51N 152W

Halfway Day!

We are officially half way! Today marks our 17th day at sea. And with that marker, the crew has been reflecting on the cruise so far. Everyone agrees that this has been a great trip. Good people, fair weather, science. What more can you ask for? At the same time, it is becoming clear that the exciting adventure spirit that accompanied everyone at the beginning of the cruise has been replaced with a more mellow attitude. On day one, everyone was jittery with anticipation of getting underway. Today, the science party is in the groove of collecting and analyzing. That's not to say that we are tired and worn down. Quite the opposite. Spirits are high. We have come up with fun little activities to pass the time. We have had some fashion days such as denim day and hawaiian shirt day. In the gym, we are attempting to burn a man (burn a combined 150,000 calories). We even had a 2km rowing contest on the erg. I have also been using this time to catch up on some reading I was unable to accomplish during the school year. Additionally, I've gotten quite good at sudoku.
We are spending less time outside due to the cooler and rainier weather. No more sunny afternoons in the pool. But everyone still heads outside to watch the sunset and we are still hoping to see a whale. We have a couple other exciting events to look forward to but more on that later.

46N 152W

Red Sky at Morning...

An update:

We are now thoroughly entrenched in our work. As we approach the halfway point in the cruise, all of the scientists and cruise have settled into the daily routine of sampling and analyzing, eating, staying fit, sleeping, and having a bit of fun. And yet, even with every day consisting of the same basic elements, every day also brings new sights and adventures. A couple mornings ago, I was sampling at about 4:00 and the sun was just starting to rise. The result was this amazing red sky, so crimson it looked unnatural. Sunrises and sunsets on the Pacific are usually a pretty amazing sight but this red was special.

Sampling 24/7 also allows for some great stargazing. Last night, the moon rose quite late allowing for several hours of amazing starry displays. You can clearly see the Milky Way galaxy out here and shooting stars are not uncommon as well. We have yet to see an aurora borealis  but we are hopeful. Along with last nights stars, came a flock of storm petrels. These small pelagic birds swarmed around the boat, feasting on small fish that were schooling at the surface. A couple of the pedrals even took a rest on the boat.

The winch at night

Our nice warm Hawaii weather has changed a bit. As we move farther north, the seas are getting rougher and the skies are more cloudy. We have yet to hit a major storm but today, for the first time, we had significant swells that buffeted the boat. Accompanied by a light rain, sampling was not quite as luxurious as it had been further south, but spirits are still high. One amazing benefit about being on the open ocean is you can watch the storm fronts roll in from a distance. I took this photo a couple days ago showing a wall of clouds moving from the east. This massive front stretched from horizon to horizon and looked to be a thousand feet tall.

Some 5ft white caps

A large front moving in. The dip was due to the boat movement. 

We have also had some more friends come to say hello. On Monday, two sea lions found our ship and circled around it while we sampled. They played with each other and jumped at the boat a couple of times. We were amazed to see these animals so far from land but it goes to show how amazing they are at swimming.

Two curious sea lions

Tomorrow we reach the halfway point in the cruise. It is clear that everyone has their eyes set on Seattle and land but everyone is in good spirits and having a good time. We are hopeful that the weather will remain manageable but we will take whatever comes our way.

44.5N 152W

Follow my Progress

I have updated the Ship tracker so now you should be able to follow my position.

Not Just Any Other Day

So today has been unlike any other. It started just before dawn. We had a sampling this morning at around 5:00AM and so I got up to prepare. By the time I was ready, the eastern sky was starting to glow orange and yellow and magenta; the beginnings of the most amazing sunrise I have every witnessed. Last night was a full moon. And so on one side of the boat, we had the sun, rising over the horizon, cloaked in a cape of clouds that reflected the colors like stained glass. And on the other side was this large bright full moon, slowly sinking below the horizon; veiled in a cloak of blue and indigo and night. To add to it all, the waters were incredibly calm and caught all of this light, shinning like oil. Together, all of these factors lead to this brilliant juxtaposition; the warm sun rising in a bright pallet of reds and yellows while the cool moon sank in a sea of twilight.

Sun rise

And just as the sun peaked over the horizon. WHAM! A flash of green blew forth like an explosion at the earths edge. A green flash. This phenomenon occurs when the sun is just peaking over the horizon. The atmosphere diffracts the first of the sun's rays, and for an instant, the emerging sun looks like a green LED bulb. Green flashes are quite rare and some people do not believe they exist. The cause is still unknown. But I got the joy of glimpsing one this morning. And I was ecstatic.

The setting moon

Later today, around 15:30, we got a call from the bridge. "Movement spotted off the port bow". And so the science party rushed up to the weather deck for a look. And we were not disappointed. In the distance, about 1 mile from the boat, a pod of dolphins splashed. At least thirty animals were breaching at the surface, blowing mist into the air and smacking their tails against the water. Tho the dolphins never got close, it was quite a show, with the members of the science party exclaiming "oo" and "ah" when ever a dolphin jumped or splashed.

The three black specs in the photo are three dolphins. The one on the right is splashing his tail.

But there is more. Around 17:00, another sight brought us on deck. Around us, floating on the surface of the water, were thousands of Velella jellyfish. These creatures are not true jellys but are technically a colony of hydrazoa. They float on the surface by inflating an air sack with carbon monoxide. The sack acts like a sail and pushes the Velella along with the current. Velella are a close relative to Portuguese Man of War so no one was in any hurry to go swimming.

Velella Jellyfish. Note the large sail.

And finally, as the sun sank below the horizon we were greeted with one last surprise. Just as the sun was setting, a huge orange moon was rising above the opposite horizon. The orange moon was not quite full but filled the sky and cast an orange glow over the dark waters. And in those waters, a visitor was lurking. Off the starboard bow, swimming quite slowly, was a blue shark. This beautiful creature had found our little boat in the middle of the pacific and decided to check us out. It slowly circled the boat, contemplating if it was of any interest. Then, silently, the shark slipped off, out of sight beneath the dark waters. The crew and science party watched the shark as it circled us. Quite an amazing sight to end the day.

The blue shark that lurked in the dark. Photo taken by Kelsey Bisson

33N 152W

We are not alone...

Even way out here, in the middle of nowhere in the Pacific Ocean, we are not alone. Everyday, we see signs of life. Today as we were performing a radiance test, I saw this bird flying about our tail. While I am not a marine ornithologist, I believe it is a pacific gull. This little guy was out here, 100's of kilometers from land. Marine birds like this are able to live on the water. They catch fish and squid and, due to the unique shapes of their wings, they can glide on air currents, using almost no energy to stay aloft.

Speaking of squid, at night, squid can be seen coming to the surface to feed. The schools spend their days in the deep where it is dark and they are safe from predators. But at night, the squid make a migration to the surface looking for food. We have also seen jelly fish and one of the crew even caught some mahi mahi. Being out in the middle of the Pacific can feel totally isolated but in reality, there is life all around.

29.5N 152W

Week One

And now a little bit about life aboard the Ron Brown:

Life at sea is in many ways like camping. Instead of tents we have staterooms. My room is shared with two other scientists on the cruise. Bryan is an physical oceanographer from the joint MIT-Woods Hole graduate program studying small scale changes in the currents. Andrew is an oceanographic modeler from the University of Washington. His job is to control the raising and lowering of the CTD. My role, for those of you who have not heard this before, is to collect samples for DOC analysis. Dissolved organic carbon (DOC) is any organic carbon structures in the ocean. It ranges from sugars, amino acids, and DNA to viruses and cell material. Basically, DOC is any small carbon material that is not carbonate (CO2, HCO3, H2CO3...).  I collect water samples from the CTD at all the different depths and freeze them. Back in Miami, the samples will be analyzed for DOC. 

Lowering the CTD into the water to collect samples. On the lower right is my bunk mate, Bryan

So my primary purpose for being on this cruise is the sampling but it doesn't consume my whole day. I sample at every other station which means I sample for about an hour and a half every 12-14 hours. I also have to prepare the sample vials and filters that I use as well as document everything. But that leaves free time in my schedule.

Meals are served three times a day and the food is quite good, especially for being at sea. Part of the reason I equate this cruise to camping is that, when camping, food always tastes better than it really is and I suspect that the food on the cruise is no different. But they have plenty of options and, for now at least, fresh vegetables are available. I also spend some time every day in the gym. Being on a boat, there isn't a lot of room or opportunity to move around and be active. So I've found its important to stay active and exercise when I can. The rest of the time is spent having fun. The crew is very friendly and we often hang out with them. Last night we started a game of monopoly that I am happy to say I was winning before we were interrupted by sampling. The ship also has 740+ movies on board so at the end of the day, some of the science party and I often watch a movie in the lounge. One of my favorite things to do on the cruise is to watch the stars. Out here in the middle of the pacific, the light pollution is effectively 0 and the number of stars you can see is a amazing! When the moon goes down, the you can clearly see that Milky Way and the planets overhead. 

Sunrise on the Brown. Sampling can occur at any time day or night which means I get sights like this. 

On Tuesday, the winds died down and the ocean became amazingly calm. I had the realization that the ocean is really a big bowl of water. I giant, enormous, humongous bowl, but a bowl all the same. Sitting in this flat ocean, it felt like we were just in a cereal bowl. It was strange. 

This image has not been altered at all. The ocean really was this flat. 

We have yet to have any significant weather and we are hoping it stays that way as we continue along 153W. We do expect some storms as we cross into the Gulf of Alaska but the ship is more then capable of deal with them. 

Well I'm off to sample again.

26.5N 152W

Day at Sea

So today was our first full day at sea. Getting into the swing of things was made easier by our delay as I was able to grow accustom to live aboard the ship while still in port. Yet the constant rocking did require some adaptation. Showing becomes a balancing act. Everything has to be secured at all times. Leaving anything free for a moment will lead to it being on the floor. The gentle rocking also has a soothing affect. More then once today I found myself starting to doze.

Sea sickness has not been a problem as of yet. I took some Bonine to be on the safe side but have felt great today. The crew all say that once you sleep a full night on the ship, your body will become accustomed to it and you will gain your sea legs.

A couple of hours out from port yesterday we had our first test cast of the CTD to ensure all the instruments were working properly. Seeing the CTD go into the water for the first time was amazing. Finally we were performing some science.

The CTD (Conductivity, Temperature, Depth) enter the water. You can see the 24 gray Niskin Bottles which will collect water samples at various depths. Also on it are a host of sensors tracking temperature, depth. salinity and much more

30 hours after leaving port we will arrive at our first real sampling station and we are awaiting samples as I write this. I fear my reports will be rather dull for the next couple weeks but I will continue to comment on ship life and any little excitements that occur on board. One such notable excitement occurred today around 19:00. Through no conscious word or announcement; as if by the sheer will of nature, the whole crew was drawn out to the aft deck just as the sun was setting. How we all managed to independently feel the urge to watch this sunset I cannot say, but I think that it speaks to the nature of humans. We are drawn to the natural beauties of this world and few of natures treasures can compare to a sunset on the open ocean. And so we watched in silence as the sun sank below the horizon; painting the clouds with the colors of fall leaves, amber, crimson, pink, and orange.

22.5N 152W

And We Are Off

Today we steamed out of pearl harbor and into open ocean; finally! As the ship pulled away from the dock and we looked on atop the 03 weather deck, everyone was in high spirits. Our respite in Hawaii was great but clearly, the crew and science party were ready to get underway.

Before leaving dock, the captain spoke about the occasion we are celebrating today: Memorial Day. And it struck me suddenly, we are in Pearl Harbor and it is Memorial Day. Throughout the last week I had toured the memorials and battleships stationed in the harbor but as we looked out on the island on this day, I found myself feeling a deep sense of pride and solemnity. 74 years ago, the attack here killed thousands of US military and civilians. And since then, thousands more have lost their lives in wars and conflicts. To be in this place, on this day, was truly an amazing experience.

As we left the harbor, we passed Hickam Air Force Base

As we steamed out of the harbor, a turtle surfaced to wish us off. Passing into open ocean, we got some great views Waikiki beach and the south side of the island. As I write this, we are preparing to do a test cast of the CTD to collect water from 1000m. Our journey has begun.

Stranded in Hawaii... Not so Terrible

So if you have seen my updates, you know that we have been delayed a week in Hawaii due to a broken compressor on the ship. So we have been forced to occupy ourselves for a week. And it has turned out to be a pretty good week. I hiked to the top of Diamond Head volcano. During World War II, the rim of the crater housed Fort Ruger, the first military installation on the island. The volcano is a tuft cone that is part of the larger crater. The views from its 760 foot summit provided a great view of the south and west sides of Oahu.

View of West Oahu from the summit of Diamond Head

After climbing down, we rewarded ourselves with a trip to Waikiki beach to cool off. The next day, I took a trip up to a beach on the north side of the island. Where as Waikiki is very loud and touristy, the north side of the island is tranquil, laid-back, and relaxed. The beach we visited was in a shallow bay and featured soft sand and good surf. We even got a special visit!

A small green turtle surfing the waves

We ended the day with some great Thai food and a long bus ride home. Day three of my stranding started with an early report to a boat launch. I went diving! And it was quite an amazing day of diving. My first dive was on a wreck named the Sea Tiger. On the 100ft dive around the wreck, I saw two huge green sea turtles, numerous moray eels, and even an octopus. On our accent, we were accompanied by a school of black and white butterfly fish. The second dive was on a shallow reef where we again saw a couple eels, a school of balloon fish and a pod of 25+ Pacific Spinner Dolphins. They circled us three times in the water, giving us quite a show and giving me an experience I will never forget. 

Day four arrived with another hike in store. All around us, large ridges produced by the erosion of volcanic cones have tantalized me. And finally I was able to hike one of them. We hiked the Waahila ridge trail that follows a knife edge ridge for about 3 miles. Along the way we got some great views, a little rock climbing, and some time with three amazing dogs that kept pace the whole way. A great way to spend some time in nature.

Today we visited the Bishop Museum which displays the history of Hawaii and other islands in Oceania. Tomorrow we will hopefully get underway.

Update: Delay in Departure

Our departure has been delayed to 12:00 on 5/25 due to needed repairs on one of the air conditioning units. The delay is unfortunate but should not impact our sampling as long as we don't have too many weather days. The delay is unfortunate but it gives me a chance to explore Oahu a bit more. 

Welcome Aboard

Well we made it to the ship. And what a magnificent vessel she is. The NOAA Ship Ronald H. Brown (or Ron Brown for short) is a 274 foot AGOR 24 class ship built for long scientific cruises in blue water. Constructed in 1995, the ship is able to take up about 150 nautical miles a day.

The brown has 6 decks. On the 01 deck is the science laboratories equipped with everything the science party needs to sample and measure the chemical and physical properties of the seawater. I have set up along one wall with coolers full of empty bottles to be filled with seawater samples and frozen. Everything has to be tied down to keep from moving during high seas.

The comradery in the main lab is great! All of the science crew is very talkative and friendly. There is an air of cheer and excitement as everyone is ready to get underway. We will disembark at 18:00 on 5/19 and the cruise will begin. Outside, the CTD is being prepped for the first test cast which will happen at just before 00:00.

The CTD is a system of bottles and sensors. The sensors take in information about the water during the CTD's dissent to the bottom. On the way up, the bottles collect water samples from specific depths. The water is then collected and analyzed by us, the scientists. This process of casting the CTD, collecting water, and analyzing its properties is done 24-7 as the Ron Brown steams toward Alaska.  

The Night Before

Today we explored the island of Oaho. Getting up at 9, we made a pilgrimage that any first time visitor to the island should. We went to Leonard's. Malasadas are Hawaiian pastries similar to donuts and Leonard's is know to make some of the best. Established in 1952, this family run establishment produces these delicious fried dough balls by the hundreds as costumers wait in line to get their order. We got a half dozen consisting of the original sugar coated ones, the cinnamon sugar ones, and the custard filled ones.

After breakfast we headed to the famous Waikiki beach for some sun and surf. This beach is located down town and is surrounded by the ritziest hotels in Honolulu. With blue water and soft sand, the beach provided a nice time to relax. We were also able to get some great views of the Diamond Head Volcano that was used as a base during WWII. 

Just a 20 minute car ride from the beach, you can reach Hawaii's mountainous rain forest. We headed up that way in search of the Manoa waterfall. The falls, about a miles hike from the road, are an amazing site to see and the journey to them was filled with wondrous sights. 

 And on the way down the mountain, we stopped for another local specialty, shaved ice. These snow cones on steroids are filled with delicious flavors of Hawaii and were a great refresher after the hike. 

Finally, to finish the day off, we went to a local tiki bar for some fresh fish and possibly the most famous Hawaiian treat, a piña colada (virgin of course).

As we settled down for the night, my thoughts turned to the morrow. At 9:00 I would be heading to the ship for the first time to see where I would be living and working for the next 6 weeks. The thoughts of what lie ahead left me excited and nervous. What great sights would I see? I'm hoping to get some great star gazing in and maybe, if I'm lucky, I'll see a whale. What great stories will I be able to tell? I'm expecting some good laughs, some unfortunate failures, and everything in between. What will the other scientists be like? I will be in the company of some brilliant people and I will get the chance to learn from them and grow as a scientist myself. What will tomorrow bring? Hopefully wonder.